Corinne goes to Egypt 2003. Page 1

This was my last business trip to the Middle East before my transition, and therefore probably my last ever unless I could persuade my employer that I could ensure business as usual, which would not be an easy feat. I wasn't even sure I'd be able to keep my job. But for now, let's go and enjoy ourselves in the land of the pyramids !


A sad day I shall never forget

The day prior to my departure for Egypt was a sunday. March 23. And my last day at home before my separation from my wife. We were going to divorce and I was moving out that evening. It was consequently a terribly sad day for me, especially as the thought of not living permanently any more with my little 6 year old daughter was almost impossible to come to terms with. Twelve years of a very turbulent marriage were drawing to an end. I still loved my wife but acknowledged that it was impossible for us to live together any more as the arguments were becoming more bitter by the day and destroying both of us. The love I had for my daughter was incredibly intense and I greatly feared that seperation from her would distance us emotionally forever (at the time of writing, 3 years later, I'm delighted to say that this never happened).
That last day was therefore rather unreal, full of dread, of the deepest sadness and impending pain. My little girl stayed close to me all day long, aware that this was my last day at home and that henceforth things were going to be different. My wife and I did some gardening and it was a bit like old times, especially as it was like a summer day. The mountain peaks, still blanketed in snow above 1600 metres, contrasted with the blue sky and hesitant green of spring. There was no wind and the sun was warm and inviting. We had dinner together at 19.00 (fish fingers and rice) then I said goodbye and my wife and I burst into tears. I cried all the way to my studio in Annecy, 10 kms away. I'd left a little note for my wife in her bed : a Simon and Garfunkel song, slightly adjusted to fit the situation : "I can hear the soft breathing of the girl that I love..."
I went straight to bed holding Moo, my teddy bear, as tight as I could. My daughter had lent me Moo earlier in the year and I take her with me on my travels. I cried myself to sleep.


Geneva - Zurich - Cairo

I arose at 05.00, dressed in my little black tie-front chiffon top, black belt, long blue and white skirt and dark brown suede strappy high heel boots. I was still very sad but at least a bit of travel would keep my mind on other things. I arrived at Geneva airport at 07.05. One of the customs officers recognised me and wished me bon voyage. After a half hour flight to Zurich I boarded the Cairo flight which was almost empty. There were about 15 passengers in the MD 11 which has 240 seats... thanks to the war in Iraq. I arrived in Cairo at 14.30 and it was raining, windy and 12°C ! No problems at all at immigration, a quick search of my suitcase by the customs, then I took a 1½ hour taxi ride to the hotel in very heavy traffic.
The sky was threateningly dark, it was raining, the windows of the taxi were covered in sand and humidity. I felt glad to be myself again but sad about my break with my wife. I'd love to lie next to her in bed but she's so cold towards me.
The staff was very welcoming at the hotel Flamenco in Zamalek, an island in the Nile in the centre of Cairo. They were delighted to see me again and thanked me for sending the photos I'd done with them last year. I changed into a pink pullover, jeans, pink belt, denim jacket and hiking boots. Had a beer in the bar then walked to a sushi restaurant through the dark wet windy streets. No-one bothered me. I bet few would have dared do that given the current war situation not too far away ! A colleague at work said he stayed safely in his hotel in Kuwait when he wasn't working... Ah well, I'm a brave girl I suppose. I phoned my daughter, and told her I missed her and loved her... and she laughed with glee ! Dearest little girl. I spoke to my wife who thanked me for my note. She seemed lonely and very sad.


Far from home, a sandstorm and now...health problems

I worked all day in male mode, having several meetings. I was suffering since the morning from a severe burning sensation when peeing, with what looked like pure blood.... I had to pee every 30 minutes and it was absolutely excruciating. I phoned my doctor in France who said it's probably an infection of the prostate and that I should get a urine test done urgently. As soon as I'd finished my meetings I went to the hospital and did a urate blood test and a urine test. The doctor also proposed an ultrasound scan, a cytoscopy and a urine cytology. I felt a little uneasy at the thought of falling ill in a place like Cairo and the hospital didn't exactly fill me with confidence.
The doctor, a capable looking man, gave me some antibiotics in case it's the prostate or a urinary tract infection. Peeing blood is really scary.
I returned to the hotel, changed into female mode and walked to the Sheraton Cairo Hotel where I ordered a lamb tagine in the rooftop Moroccan restaurant. It is still freezing cold and windy with a sandstorm. The young waiter came and said "Ma'am I must tell you that you are very beautiful !" Later he informed me "You have a beautiful body !" He asked for my room number so I said I was married. He wanted to know if my husband was with me. I watched the belly dancing then went to bed.


Panic over

After work I changed back into female mode and went back to to Alsalam hospital to collect my urine and blood tests and to do an ultrasound scan. Everything was normal, including the prostate and there was no sign of urate crystals. The doctor thought maybe a crystal had torn the inside of the urethra before exiting. There was considerable tittering on the part of the junior personnel who were all watching me closely, having seen me in male mode the previous day. The doctor, however, took it all in his stride.
I caught a taxi to the Mariott hotel and had a naff meal in the Italian restaurant: luke warm chips which I sent back and they were returned proudly, having been microwaved... The meat was lukewarm and devoid of any taste. This is not my best trip is it ?


A frustrating day

I had some meetings in the morning then went back to the hotel and changed into a little blue and white top, jeans and beige rope wedge sandals. I had lunch in the Flamenco hotel restaurant but the service was abysmal and the surly waitress got on my nerves. She was staring at me with disapproval so I glared fixedly at her until she looked away. After lunch I walked along the edge of the Nile but got bothered by a group of small boys. There was constant honking of horns and I was being watched by a hundred pairs of eyes so there was no question of a quiet stroll along the towpath. I took a taxi to the Nile Hilton, wandered around and checked the room price which was $ 110 incl. taxes but it wasn't a very nice hotel and the pool was lousy.
I walked around the shopping centre and it was all hassle. I was followed the whole time by gormless giggling schoolgirls who were ugly as sin. I had to tell them to leave me alone and it was very interesting to note that they shied away as I spoke to them as if in fear of me ! Shopkeepers were running from one shop to the next to advise each other of my approach and they just stared, making it impossible to look at anything. I left after a quick tour of the 7 floors but there was nothing but shoddy shoes and boring clothes. By the look of it none of the shops had had a client for weeks ! Egyptians seem just to go there for a walk and to look.
I returned to the hotel and read for a while then changed into my knee length purple skirt and black anklestrap stiletto sandals. I also taped my little breasts close together and wore my dark blue low-cut t-shirt and the cleavage was very impressive ! I again went out to walk to the Four Corners restaurant which was really good although the waiters were a pretty dry bunch.


Cairo - Sharm El Sheikh

Friday is the start of the Arab weekend and today I was going to the Red Sea ! From this point on my business trip was finished and I had taken a few days' holiday. I had to get up at the unearthly hour of 03.00 ! I dressed in a zebra zipped top, denim miniskirt and jacket, tights and cream suede flat knee boots. I left the hotel at 04.30 (gasp) and arrived at the airport at 05.00. I created a bit of a stir the way I was dressed of course and got openly laughed at by 2 Englishmen who looked like they were the type who feel threatened on a psychosexual basis. I ignored them, boarded the plane and flew across the most beautiful desert to Sharm El Sheikh, a tourist spot at the south-eastern tip of the Sinai Peninsular.
The little airport was immaculate, with its manicured lawns, the sky was bright blue and it was 30°C. I could see I was going to enjoy my weekend ! In the distance was a picturesque mountain range, the very sight of which made me itch to go and climb it immediately ! I had forgotten to book a hotel so chose the Mariott bus amongst a score of others. It turned out to be an excellent choice... The Mariott Beach Resort at Nama Bay. A beautiful reception with waterfall, pretty pool and lots of palm trees.


A luxurious room and balcony

I waited for a room to be available as it was only 09.00 and did some photos in the meantime. An employee offered to take a picture but, having experienced the photographic ineptitude of many Egyptians before, I told him I had a self timer. I was given a really nice room with a balcony overlooking the pool with its little wooden bridges, rockeries, waterfall and palm trees, and, beyond, the Red Sea !


The swimming pool

I immediately set off for the beach wearing my bikini top (I don't really need my fake tits any more), black beach skirt and rope wedges. I sat in the shade since I'm not supposed to go in the sun because of my antibiotics and admired 2 Russian girls in bikinis with lovely bodies. Well, when I say "admired" what I really mean is "slobbered uncontrollably"... I went to bed at 13.00 listening to the sound of the pool and the wind in the palms. I feel free, free, free.

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