As we climbed up it became quite impossible to stay on the donkey, sliding precariously one side or the other, while fending off Zidane and his WHT (which every girl knows means "wandering hand trouble") so I dismounted (a posh, horseycultural word for slipping off and falling flat on my face) and walked while holding the donkey. I was quite happy with this arrangement because it allowed me to get some exercise, but Zidane kept exhorting me to get back on the donkey. He was embarrassed that he, the guide, was riding while I, the female client, was walking ! I laughingly thought to myself that he would start getting very insistant as we approached the police post at the pass, which he did. The police laughed at us, or, presumably him.
Since the descent on the other side was too steep for the donkeys, I left him with them and a bottle of water to keep him from dying while I was away and hiked down into the Valley of the Kings. It was about a 200 metre vertical drop and it got hotter as I descended, reaching around 40°, with absolutely no wind. I had to go to the entrance to buy the ticket which gives admission to 3 tombs. and took refuge for a while in the air-conditioned visitors' centre . First I visited the tomb of Ramses IV. I made the mistake of filming inside the tomb for 20 seconds and a very aggressive guard in a dirty robe grabbed my camera, shouting something unintelligible and spraying me with spittle from his toothless mouth. I refused to let go and told him to leave me alone. He looked quite crazy. Meanwhile all the other tourists evaporated fearfully. I tried gently stepping on his foot with my hefty boot, not wanting to crush his toes all the same, but he only let go when I twisted his fingers backwards. I think he'll think twice in future before aggressing a big girl like me. I told him he was a very nasty man indeed and left for the next tomb, that of Ramses IX. Clearly a lot of the Ramses family kicked the bucket in this valley... |